What effect do thioglycolic acid derivatives and ammonium hydroxide have in alkaline perms?

• A. Shortens the processing time
• B. Increases the processing time
• C. Weakens the curl
• D. Decreases lift

Answer: (A)

In alkaline perms, the strong reducing environment created by thioglycolic acid derivatives, combined with the high pH provided by ammonium hydroxide, speeds up the chemical reaction that breaks down the hair’s disulfide bonds. The reducing agent donates electrons to convert those bonds into sulfhydryl groups, while the alkaline pH swells the hair and opens the cuticle, allowing the reducing agent to penetrate faster. Because the reduction happens more rapidly and the fibers are more accessible, the hair can be reshaped around the rods in a shorter processing time.